Easy Rider 2019

Another 250 miles, broadly east, riding through contrasting landscapes as we left the state of Colorado behind and entered the state of New Mexico. Stopping off along the way for a rather fine coffee with brown sugar syrup shot and a blueberry muffin at the excellently named Higher Grounds coffee shop in Pagosa Springs. Then we climbed up to 10800 feet elevation as we rode through San Juan National Forest  and the Wolf Creek Pass  along roads with long sweeping curves in a mountainous area again reminiscent of the Alps in temperatures ranging from a chilly sub 60F up to more pleasant mid 70s. This really was my kind of riding. We stopped for lunch at the Colorado Grille and Tap Room, in Del Norte, before heading in to the relatively featureless New Mexico landscape on long, undulating roads in temperatures back in the 80Fs. NOT such interesting or exciting riding. We passed the survivalist village in the Rio Grande National Park  and crossed the Rio Grande itself: ...

Today is our mid-trip rest day so we met our friends from the USA, Sher and Terry Newland and Carole and Doug Lant for a trip on the Durango to Silverton Steam Railway , previous winner of most scenic in the USA. Three and a half hours each way with a two hour stop in Silverton. Here is a selection of pictures from the train ride: We stopped for lunch in Silverton at a former bordello, Natalia's 1912 restaurant : Here is Silverton main street: When we returned to Durango, Doug and Carole had a surprise visit planned for us to a speakeasy disguised as a barber shop and bookshop - The Bookcase and Barber . Cocktails all round, including a mint julep for Tracey, and then a short stroll to a Mexican restaurant. On the way Tracey managed to cross the road on a red light right in front of the local Sheriff! He saw the funny side. In short, a perfect day.

By popular request, here are a couple more pictures from yesterday's visit to Monument Valley: Today we had a relatively short ride "only" racking up a tad over 200 miles bringing our total since last Thursday to 1300. We headed north out of Kayenta back through Monument Valley and out of the state of Arizona in to Utah. As we looked back fans of Forrest Gump and Bob Seger may recognise this shot:   We rode past Mexican Hat (another famous rock formation - no picture) in chilly morning temperatures and under an ominously grey sky. The distinctly British riding conditions did not detract from the beauty of the Bluff Scenic Drive as we made our way to a unique spot in the USA where four states meet, Four Corners (Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado): On then to the Loungin' Lizard in Cortez for the best lunch of the trip so far and then a short blast to Durango, elevation 6500 feet, for a two night ...

We left Route 66 behind and went north to view the Sacred Mountain gas station, or what is left of it,  where the hippy filled up Wyatt's tank causing Billy an anxious moment as he thought that he might see the stashed cash: And so on to yet another glorious scenic drive through the Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument. A wonderful twisty road through a black lava landscape interspersed with pine trees. At the end of the road is the spot, Wukoki, where Wyatt and Billy camped for tthe night with the hippy: In the afternoon we travelled further north, even crossing a small corner of the state of Utah, to Monument Valley for a 2 hour guided tour. Words cannot express the awesomeness of Monument Valley that has to be seen to be believed. The pictures below give a taste of the wonders that we beheld: We made it back to our hotel just as night fell and feeling a little closer to home as we are now 7  hours behind the UK, not 8.

240 miles today as we crossed the Colorado River leaving California behind us and on in to Arizona. This is the old Route 66 bridge across the river that featured in the film adaptation of John Steinbeck's "Grapes of Wrath" starring Henry Fonda: Onward, East,  along historic Route 66 we rode the spectacular Oatman Highway stopping in Oatman to check out the hotel and room where Clark Gable and Carole Lombard honeymooned:   There is even an escape room in Oatman:  Burros too: Next stop Kingman where we lunched at Arby's, a new experience for us both. On then to Hackberry and the iconic General Store: This old Ford won't be turning a wheel on Route 66 again anytime soon: We then rode alone for 60 miles along the deserted highway, past the farm where Billy and Wyatt repaired the puncture and ate with the farmer's family and arrived in Seligman for a much needed chilled latte at the very café we stopped at 9 years ago. These faded la...

When we woke up in daylight this morning we saw this in the hotel car park, an old locomotive once run by the Death Valley Railway Company: Also in the car park our holiday transport: We headed off bright and early leaving Furnace Creek behind riding toward the lowest point of the USA, Badwater Basin situated in Death Valley that is nearly 300 feet below sea level. The sign here is way up the rock face and, identifies sea level: Here is a sign that is easier to read: Here is a plaque detailing the typical temperatures experienced in Death Valley. What it must have been like for the early settlers before the advent of air conditioning one can only imagine: Today we experienced temperatures up to 94F. After Badwater Basin we continued south to Shoshone in brilliant sunshine on empty twisty roads as good as any experienced in Europe (not all roads in the USA are dead straight!). We then crossed the Mohave Desert stopping for a picnic lunch in the welcome shade ...

Yesterday afternoon we met up with our fellow travellers - 5 Germans, 2 Swiss (German speaking), 2 Danes, 1 Dutchman, 1 Kiwi and 6 Brits (including us) and our Group Leader, Alan, and Support Vehicle Driver, Steve. The evening was spent at Gene Simmons (Kiss) restaurant in Los Angeles getting to know each other, albeit the main topic of conversation was sleep (or lack of it!). Something to do with the age profile of the group, I think...... Tracey and I by the official transport: Thursday morning saw us all pile down to the Eagle Rider premises in LA to collect our rental Harleys - Tracey and I have a Electra Glide Ultra (armchair on two wheels). We don't have these replicas of Billy and Wyatt's bikes: And so off in to the horrendous Los Angeles traffic passing the end of the runway where Billy and Wyatt did their drug deal with the pusher (played by Phil Spector) and then north towards the spectacular Panamint Valley and ultimately on to Death Valley via Ballarat,...